Raw spectral energy for our buoys for swell 19,
Feb 10-11 2002
San Francisco spectrum
SE Papa buoy spectrum
What the swell looked like at creation
This was a 12-18 hour storm with nice shape and fetch. It came in
as the Ocean Beach swell of the year at 8-9 ft 17 seconds on a
Sunday from 270 degrees. Like other big 270 degree swells,
longshore currents running to the north were insane, and the
paddle was rough. It also came in with stiff offshore winds and
THICK, PITCHING LIPS. This was the swell people talked about for
months. Monday was still close to double overhead, with 14 second
period energy, which felt kinda weak in comparison to Sunday's
juice. As a 270 degree swell, it didn't really come 'through' the
SE Papa to get to us, and the California buoy was down.